Dinner at The Arduaine, the Keltic’s onsite restaurant, was just what we needed after a long day of driving: mussels, halibut and steak. Afterwards, we wandered into the lounge and discovered Cape Breton multi-in- strumentalist musician Nathan Bishop MacDonald playing live. He moved between guitar, fiddle, har- monica, drum and recorder — the kind of solo set that fills a room without trying too hard. It had that East Coast vibe: relaxed, foot-tapping and a little like being at a kitchen party with strangers who feel like friends. We woke to clear skies and a view of Cape Smokey framed by our window. We lingered over coffee and breakfast in our room before packing up for the day — grateful for the Mitsubishi Outlander’s spacious cargo area, which let us keep our gear organized without playing suitcase Tetris. Our first stop was the Groovy Goat: part petting farm, part soap and gelato shop, where we picked up a few bars of goat milk soap as gifts and chatted with Shannon, the owner (and fellow Outlander driver). It was a short stop that reminded us how much of the charm of the area comes from the people you meet along the way. It was a proper maritime welcome. Day Two: Goats, gravel and the edge of the island In Neil’s Harbour, we walked up to the lighthouse and stopped outside the Chowder House — one of our fa- vourite places from past visits. It was still closed for the season, but we enjoyed the view from the bluff. All along the coastline, lobster boats were busy pull- ing traps, checking the day’s haul and moving steadily along the shore. Watching them became part of our routine, too. We took a detour to Meat Cove — a remote side trip that’s worth the effort. The road narrows and climbs as you go, with steep hills and unpaved stretch- es. We made good use of the Outlander’s Super All- Wheel Control and switched into Gravel Mode and let it take care of the terrain. On the steeper sections, we used Hill Descent Control and it made a noticeable difference — no sudden jolts, no sliding, just smooth, steady control down the sharp drops. It gave us the confidence to keep going and enjoy the view instead of worrying about the road. Later that afternoon, we returned to the Keltic Lodge and hiked the Middle Head Trail. Nestled inside Cape Breton Highlands National Park, the trail follows a narrow peninsula with ocean views on both sides. Seabirds passed overhead and more lobster boats moved through the water below. That night, we had a second supper at The Arduaine, scoring a seat by the water. We both ordered the had- dock, taking the advice of MacDonald, the musician
we met the night before to “always try the pan-fried haddock on the East Coast. It never disappoints.” He was right. Day Three: National Park views, espresso stops and Acadian culture The day started with coffee in Adirondack chairs on our patio, watching lobster boats out on the water. The boats moved slowly along the coast, measuring and sorting the morning’s catch, seagulls trailing in hope of breakfast. After a delicious breakfast buffet at the hotel, we drove west through the Park, making a quick stop at The Bitsy Bean in Ingonish Beach before winding our way onwards. Smart cruise control helped manage our speed through the forested sections — adjusting gently through shaded curves and hilltop clearings while we took in the views.
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