burned in 2024. But Jasper’s spirit endured, and it continues to thrive, thanks in part to the visitors who keep coming. We planned to catch a sunset at Maligne Lake via the appropriately named Malign Lake Road – one of the best stretches of road in the Rockies. As we wound our way through, burned forest slowly gave way to lush green. We stopped at Medicine Lake, which isn’t actually a lake in the traditional sense of the word. It’s part of an underground drainage system; in spring and summer, meltwater floods the valley faster than it can drain, forming the lake. But by fall, it mysterious- ly vanishes through a network of sinkholes, feeding one of the largest known underground river systems in North America. Early Indigenous peoples believed it held healing powers, and when you’re standing there watching the light shift across the water and the peaks, it’s not hard to see why. While we were there, we spotted a bald eagle’s nest, and then the real highlight of the trip: a mama grizzly and her two cubs, foraging quietly by the lake shore. We kept our distance, didn’t linger too long, and drove on with that mix of adrenaline and awe that only wild- life encounters can stir up. Further down, we saw a black bear and later, two moose. The road eventually ends at Maligne Lake, home to the famous Spirit Island and Valley of the Gods. Boat tours run here, or you can make the four to six-hour paddle to get to Spirit Island. Fortunately, there are reservable campsites along the lake. We caught nightfall at the lake and headed back to town with happy hearts and hungry bellies.
As we headed back to Calgary we reflected on our trip. Jasper isn’t just a backup plan to Banff. It’s its own kind of wild. More than anything, this trip reminded me how lucky we are to have places like this, within reach. As for the Mitsubishi Outlander, it was a reliable and comfortable adventure companion for the whole jour- ney. It helped us realise that sometimes the road less travelled just needs a little music, some good com- pany, and maybe a red canoe strapped to the roof. If You Go Driving Time: Calgary to Jasper via Icefields Parkway is about five hours without stops. With stops, budget eight to 10 hours, but you could easily spend days here. There are many campsites along the way, as well as a handful of lodges and hostels if you want to make it more than a day trip. Alternatively, make Lake Louise or Jasper your home base to explore this iconic stretch of road, in depth. Gas and Services: After Lake Louise, services are few and far between. Fill up there or in Saskatchewan River Crossing. Park Pass: Required for Banff and Jasper National Parks. These are available online in advance or at park gates. Wildlife: Always give space. Bring binoculars and zoom lenses. It’s important to remember the animals here are truly wild, it’s not a zoo. Weather: It’s unpredictable in shoulder season. Bring layers and check road conditions. It’s the mountains, which means we can get all four seasons in a single day. Safety: It’s recommended to carry bear spray when hiking, especially on quieter trails. Mi
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