There is a philosophy to consider with pairings (even doughnuts), and that is intention. Knowing chef, I be- lieve her intentions are to enjoy a simple moment that you have created hopefully with your own fingers. Something innocent, and still a moment that can be stolen alone, or shared with somebody in giddy pri- vacy. Where you are, homemade jams are bound to be unique, and the intention of your evening may be a romantic gesture, or it may be a swally in a Montreal park. Where possible, get dough between your palms. Or do as chef Alex would do, the chef that loves the simplicity of golden dough and jam smooshed inside of it, made from wild berries she scoured for, leaving boot prints all over a vast barren. Or do as I may have done, do not honour the Montreal picnic law, and im- bibe raw wine until all that’s left for the police to see are the crumbs on your shirt. Drink what feels right with a doughnut, or anything at all, whether it be Marqués de Murietta Gran Reserva Rioja with beet and coconut shaving that matches the technical lactones in a toasted American oak barrel, or Innocent Bystander Black Moscato with partridge- berry jam to absorb the berries’ tart astringency. With a label depicting a human devouring a doughnut in se- crecy, fading into the ether where such pleasure can be gobbled up free of judgment. If it is the first wine you find tipping out from the shelf at Foodland, let your “place” dictate the occasion, but celebrate it. Mi
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